As far as which sex is concerned, it is an individual preference. Female rats are smaller, their coats softer, and they normally scent mark their territories less. They are also extremely active throughout their lives, and rarely sit still on their owners laps, preferring to be out and exploring. Males are far more laid back on a whole, grow much bigger in some cases, and are more likely to be ‘lap’ rats. Their coats are usually coarser, and they can scent mark quite a bit. They have very pronounced testicles, which can sometimes turn people away.

Of course, this is only a generalization, some rats will be the complete opposite. They are all individuals with their own distinct personalities.

When deciding upon which type of rat to get, the choices are abundant. There are standard eared, and dumbo eared, standard coat, rex coat (curly with curly whiskers), patchwork or semi hairless, and hairless rats. Hairless rats do need some special treatment, so are not a wise choice for beginners. Rats come in a rainbow of different colours and with different markings. There are selfs (all one colour), hooded, capped, berkshire, irish, blazed, and many more markings, in all colours ranging from black, white, blue, beige, siamese, agouti and everything in between. There are nearly as many colours and markings of rats than there are cats.

For more examples, or for pictures of each, please visit the following websites:

When you are choosing a particular rat there are a number of things to watch out for. You want to chose a rat that is active and seems curious. Your rat should have no pink/red staining around the nose and eyes. This staining is called porphyrin and could indicate that the rat is not well. Their eyes should be big and wide, their coats should look healthy and shiny and their skin free of scabs or bald patches (unless the breed is a patchwork or semi hairless). Your rat should not be fearful of you, and should be eager to be picked up. A rat that runs and hides, or squeeks or struggles when picked up could be a less socialized rat and will require special handling until the rat is comfortable with humans.

Rat diets should consist of the same items as a human diet. Those foods that are not healthy for humans to eat, should not be given to rats either. Sweets and treats should be given in moderation as rats are notorious for having a sweet tooth.

Rat blocks, or lab blocks are designed to provide all the necessary nutritional requirements. They are also designed so the rat will not eat just the favourite pieces and leave the rest. Seed mixes are not ideal for this reason. The rats will eat the fattening nuts and leave the bits that they need the most.

Another staple that is frequently used is Nutro Natural Lite Dog food. Because dogs are also omnivores, their kibble is an acceptable substitute for lab blocks designed for rodents. For more info, visit:  http://www.epetpals.com/cgi-bin/commerce.exe?preadd=action&key=079105206006

One of the most important things to check for when picking a stable block or kibble for your rat is the protein levels. Male rats should not get more than aprox 18% protein in their diets. Females or nursing mothers should receive more protein, but should not get more than about 25%. When rats have too much protein in their diets, they can suffer from very uncomfortable and itchy skin conditions. They will scratch themselves constantly causing hair loss and scabs.

Rats cannot live on their staple food alone. Be sure to substitute frequently with fresh fruits and vegetables, with a treat of meat or chicken thrown in occasionally. Store bought treats should be kept to a minimum, instead use cereal, or the rats favourite fruit or vegetable. Peas are usually a favourite of every rat.

Be aware that there are a handful of foods that should not be fed to rats. A list of forbidden foods, or foods to give with caution can be found here:

http://www.ratfanclub.org/diet.html (scroll down about ¾ of the page)

Although others have found glass or plastic aquariums acceptable, they are not always the best choice. Aquariums work well in areas that are drafty, or for sick or nursing rats. Aquariums keep in heat efficiently, and provide a safe environment for rats small enough to fit through cage bars. Never keep aquriums in direct sunlight.

Aquariums are also very inexpensive. Rat owners can find second hand glass aquariums sometimes very cheaply due to the fact that they no longer are able to hold water.

Aquariums need to be cleaned out completely every couple of days because the ammonia from the rat urine builds up quickly and causes the rat respiratory distress. It is very challenging to find items that can go into the aquarium that need to be elevated as well.

Cages are looked upon as the better option for the following reasons. Cages provide constant air exchange that does not allow the ammonia to build up within. They are easier to clean in that they can be wiped down much of the time with a non-toxic, animal friendly product instead of being completely submersed in water. Attaching water bottles and hammocks are easy with a metal cage. When chosing a metal cage, it is better to go with powdercoated as opposed to galvanized. Powdercoated are much easier to clean, and do not smell as the galvanized tend to do with time.

Most metal cages come with plastic, or metal bottoms. Both are fine as they are covered with shavings or cloth for the comfort of the rats. The bottom of the cage must never be wire, always a solid bottom. A rats foot can easily be damaged between the wire bars along the bottom of the cage.

The most common problem with metal cages are that they are expensive for rats due to their size requirements. Many use cages designed for ferrets because they will house multiple rats in one cage. They can also be awkward to clean when the shelving inside cannot be removed.

Where cages are kept is also important. They should not be in a drafty area, or in direct sunlight.

Different types of metal cages can be found here:

Safe rat bedding includes Wood stove pellets, and paper based products such as Yesterday’s News or Carefresh. Carefresh can be dusty, irritating sensitive rat respiration. Yesterdays News (compressed newspaper pellets) will break down less that Wood Pellets when in contact with urine, (causing piles of dust to develop).

Towels are also very popular. Towel bedding does require changing frequently, every day or two, due to the buildup of rat urine. When washing any cloth bedding, it is suggested to use non perfumed detergent and fabric softener.

Other items commonly used are hemp, wood stove pellets and rabbit food, or alfalfa pellets. Rats will not eat alfalfa, so using it as a bedding is safe.

Many rat owners will use a combination of the above, shavings at the bottom of the cage, and cloth as hammocks or to line shelves for ratty comfort.

Information on proper introductions can be found here:

Not all vets will treat rats, and many others are not very knowledgeable with their specific health issues and current successful treatments. Please do not assume that a vet that treats cats and dogs will see rats.  Do some research on area vets, and their prices & experience with them.  How many rats do they see each week? Rats are considered ‘small exotics’ by many vet practices.

Some excellent links on rat ailments, care and medications can be found here: