Choosing A Hamster
When deciding upon which type of
hamster to get, there are many choices. There are short haired,
longhaired, rex and hairless varieties. Hairless hamsters do need
some special treatment, so are not a wise choice for beginners.
Hamsters come in at least 40 different color combinations and with
different markings. There are banded (a white band around the middle
of the body), dominant spot (patches of white on it’s body and a
blaze on it’s forehead) as well as many more markings, in all
colors ranging from black, white, cinnamon, beige, black and
everything in between. There are nearly as many colors and markings
of hamsters than there are cats!
Examples and pictures of each can be
found at:
www.hamsterific.com/Varieties.cfm
www.midlandhamsterclub.co.uk/hamster/syrian.html
When you are choosing a particular hamster there are a number of
things to watch out for. You want to choose a hamster that is active
and seems curious. Check to make sure the bottom is clean and dry
and that the eyes and nose aren't running. Eyes should be dark and
bright (unless of course it’s a red-eyed hamster). Their fur should
be clean and slightly shiny. If there are ill-looking hamsters in
with healthy ones, be wary; the sick ones can easily transfer
illnesses to healthy ones. At Rabbit Rescue, we take pride in
providing medical treatment to all animals in our care. When
adopting a hamster from us, you can be assured they have received
medical treatment whenever need.
Housing
The larger the
cage, the happier your Hamsters will be. There are 3 main types of
homes for hamsters.
While some have
found glass or plastic aquariums acceptable, they are not always the
best choice. Aquariums work well in areas that are drafty, or for
sick or nursing or dwarf hamsters. Aquariums keep in heat
efficiently, and provide a safe environment for hamsters small
enough to fit through cage bars. Never keep aquariums in direct
sunlight. Aquariums can be difficult to clean and do not allow for
proper air circulation.
Barred cages
are looked upon as the better option for the following reasons.
Cages provide constant air exchange that does not allow the ammonia
to build up within. They are easier to clean in that they can be
wiped down much of the time with a non-toxic, animal friendly
product instead of being completely submersed in water. Attaching
water bottles and toys are easy with a metal cage. When choosing a
metal cage, it is better to go with powder coated as opposed to
galvanized. Powder coated are much easier to clean, and do not smell
as the galvanized tend to do over time.
Barred cages are good for
Syrians but not for Dwarfs, unless the bars are very close together
to prevent them from escaping. Multi-levelled barred cages work
best, with a plastic removable base. These give hamsters plenty of
air circulation and things to climb on. They should not be housed
on a metal bottom, as their feet are quite sensitive. Plastic
modular homes are very popular, and can be expanded by tubes and
compartments. These tend to have less ventilation though and it is
sometimes harder for human contact.
Cleaning the cage is important to prevent disease. Scrub it weekly
with a mild detergent and hot water. Vinegar can be used to remove
urine stains on the plastic. Keep their cage in a spot where you will be frequently. They will get accustomed to the
household and will be easier to train.
Rabbit Rescue usually has a variety of used hamster cages for sale
at great prices. Please inquire to find out what is available!!
Bedding
Pine or cedar shavings should not be
used, as the phenols in them can cause severe respiratory problems.
Hamsters can be bedded on aspen shavings, Care fresh bedding, and
shredded paper. A thick layer of bedding is recommended, as
hamsters enjoy digging, burrowing and nest building. Pieces of
unscented tissue, toilet paper or paper towels can be given as nest
making materials as well.
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Cage Accessories/Toys
Hidey-houses
are great for hamsters; they will retreat there to sleep, or if they
are feeling threatened. A small to medium sized exercise wheel is
essential for a hamster, as they rely on the wheel for exercise. A
solid metal or plastic wheel is recommended, as wire wheels can hurt
the hamsters feet. It should be large enough so that the hamster
isn’t arching is back when he’s running.
Empty toilet paper rolls, small cardboard boxes, small wooden bird
toys, rigid plastic snap together toys, unpainted wooden baby
blocks, etc. make fantastic toys. Hamsters love to chew, so be sure
that whatever you give them is either un-chewable or if they do
chew, it will not harm them by ingesting it. Organic apple or
willow branches are great fun for them to chew; they are available
on the Rabbit Rescue shop page.
Nutrition
In the wild,
hamsters are omnivorous, feeding on plants, seeds, fruits and
insects. Any good quality pre-mixed hamster food should be your
hamster’s staple diet, as well as fresh fruits and vegetable. Store
bought treats should be kept to a minimum, and hamsters will prefer
fresh foods to them. Dog biscuits are a tasty treat as well; not
only does it give the hamster some extra protein, but also gives
them something to chew on to wear down their ever-growing teeth.
Hamsters also
love to chew. Dried, untreated apple branches are safe for them to
chew on, and are essential for wearing down their teeth. Organic
apple branches are available in the Rabbit Rescue shop section.
Click on the
link for a complete list of foods that are safe for hamsters.
http://www.hamsterific.com/Nutrition.cfm
Illnesses
In general, hamsters are robust creatures that are not generally
affected by many illnesses. However, on occasion, a hamster can get
ill, and because of their small size, slight illnesses can progress
to life-threatening in a very short period of time if not treated.
You should examine your hamster frequently for any signs of
illness. Look for lumps, bumps or growths, make sure their front
incisors are not overgrowing, that their weight is being maintained
and that they have a healthy coat of fur. Excess scratching, lack
of appetite, diarrhea, failure to groom regularly, all indicate that
a trip to the vet is necessary.
For more information on health issues, please see the link below.
http://www.hamsterific.com/IllnessGuide.cfm
Handling
Be
sure to handle your hamster every night. Wash your hands before handling him,
as they might nip if they smell food on your hands. Do not wake him up, but
rather, wait until he has woken on his own and is fully alert before attempting
to handle him. They startle very easily, and by nature, will bite if they feel
threatened.
Hamsters have
poor eyesight, so be sure to talk to him before touching him. Let
him smell your hands and get used to your scent; he’ll soon learn
that you’re a friend!
Be sure to stay close
to the ground while handling your hamster. They have a tendency to
jump and have poor depth perception, and might injure himself by
jumping from your hands.
Further Reading
www.hamsterific.com
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In
1930, a zoologist came across a family of hamsters burrowed 8 feet
below the ground in the middle of the Syrian Desert. He brought
them back to his laboratory in Jerusalem and within 4 months the
first litter of Golden or Syrian hamsters were born. From
Jerusalem, scientists took them to France, England and, in 1938, to
the United States. All present-day Golden Hamsters in captivity with
the exception of a few brought back by travelers and military men
are the descendants of that first small family of hamsters found in
Syria. 
fighting.
Often as they mature, larger groups (i.e. 4+) must be separated into
smaller groups (i.e. 2).
